锦纶因其自身的优良特性,已经被广泛应用于多种服装面料中,与流行、休闲、运动等时尚元素的联系越来越密切,锦纶染整技术的发展也有较大提高。但随着消费水平的不断提高、企业成本的不断上涨及环保压力的日益突出,锦纶染色又有了新的要求,高坚牢度、节能减排、成本控制成为锦纶染色的几个重要关注点及技术发展趋势。

Polyamide fiber has been widely used in many kinds of apparel fabrics benefiting from its excellent characteristics. With the popularity of fashion, leisure and sports, polyamide fiber has seen good market opportunity and big technical progress in its dyeing and finishing. With the constant improvement of consumption level, the rising of enterprise cost and the increasing environmental pressure, there are additional requirements for polyamide dyeing, such as high color fastness, energy conservation, emissions reduction and cost control. These new requirements have become important considerations in polyamide dyeing, and are pushing forward the development of related dyeing technology.

文章采用8种植物染料对羊绒、羊毛、锦纶、蚕丝等4种含酰胺键的纺织纤维进行了染色试验,并对染色结果进行了测试分析。结果表明:植物染料对羊绒的染色K/S值明显大于羊毛,锦纶大多优于真丝;在4种织物中羊绒的染色K/S值普遍较大,部分植物染料对锦纶的染色K/S值最大;蚕丝和锦纶染色的色彩明度大多亮于羊毛和羊绒;蚕丝得色饱和度最高、纯度最大,部分染料在锦纶上的得色纯度高;从色牢度看,植物染料对羊绒、羊毛的耐皂洗色牢度优于锦纶、蚕丝,但是色牢度与染料结构的关系更密切。

In this paper, eight kinds of vegetable dyes were used for dying cashmere, wool, nylon and silk textile whose fibers containing amide bonds, and then the K/S value and soaping fastness were tested. The results show that K/S values of dyed cashmere were significantly higher than that of wool, and K/S values of dyed nylon were mostly higher than that of silk. Further, K/S values of dyed cashmere were the largest among the four fibers, and nylon achieved the largest values with several vegetable dyes. Regarding color brightness, the color of silk and nylon was mostly brighter than that of wool and cashmere. The silk fabric achieved the highest values in the color saturation. Meanwhile, the color saturation of nylon was the largest with some vegetable dyes. Concerning color fastness, the color fastness of cashmere and wool was better than that of nylon and silk. However, color fastness was closely related to the structure of the dyes.

锦纶66原丝专用筒子车是锦纶66原丝生产全套引进设备中的一种专用运输工具。随着锦纶66原丝生产量的增加,运输量增大,原丝专用筒子车使用中出现承载原丝筒子的横梁槽钢与车体之间的开焊和插丝锭折断现象。针对原丝专用筒子车使用中出现的问题,提出对原丝专用筒子车进行技术改造,取得了良好效果。

The special spooler referred herein is a specialized transportation tool which is imported for the production of nylon 66 industrial yarn.As the production and transportation volume of the nylon 66 industrial yarn increases , fracture of the beam channel steel , which bears the yarn bobbin and body , appears .For the above problems , some technical improvements to the special spooler were proposed and good results were achieved .

通过分析棉、亚麻、锦纶花式纱中各纤维的物理特征和化学溶解性能，确定先测出锦纶含量，方法为溶解法和拆分法两种；再确定棉、亚麻纤维含量，方法为借助CU-Ⅱ纤维细度仪，分别测试花式纱中的棉和亚麻含量（A方法）、拆分或者溶解出锦纶后的棉麻混纺纱中棉和亚麻的含量（B、C方法）；组合成6种方案，分别计算出花式纱中各组分纤维含量，得出6种结果。对这6种结果进行比较，得出最优定量方案为：手工拆分出锦纶，得出锦纶和棉麻混纺纱的百分比含量，然后将棉麻混纺纱按照标准FZ/T 30003—2009要求进行制片测量，得出其各自的混纺比，最后综合计算出花式纱中各组分纤维的质量分数。同时可以得出，手工拆分结果优于化学溶解法检测结果，因为纤维经试剂处理后，其平均直径将略有增大。

By analyzing physical characteristics and Chemical solubility of each fiber component of the cotton , flax and nylon fancy yarn, it is determined to measure the nylon content by the methods of dissolution and splitting first, then the cotton and flax contents in the fancy yarn were tested respectively by means of CU-Ⅱfiber fineness tester (A method) or through the cotton and flax blended yarn after splitting or dissolving nylon by dissolution or splitting method (B, C method). 6 kinds of solutions are formed and fiber component content of the fancy yarn is calculated. Comp ared these six kinds of results, the optimal quantitative solution is as follows: remove the nylon content by manual splitting, then through flaking measurement to get blending ratio of cotton and flax according to the standard of FZ/T 30003—2009, and finally comprehensively calculate the mass fraction of each fiber component of the fancy yarn. At the same time it can be concluded that the manual splittin

将自制的新型多胺类无醛固色剂对酸性染料染色锦纶织物进行固色处理,并优化出最佳的固色工艺:酸性染料染色锦纶织物→两浸两轧(固色剂90 g/L,固色温度60℃,浸30 min,pH为6,轧余率80%)→预烘(80℃,3 min)→焙烘(130℃,3 min)。性能测试发现:酸性染料染色的锦纶织物,其耐洗色牢度达到4级左右;湿摩擦牢度达到3级。就湿摩擦牢度来看,自制固色剂在酸性染料上的固色效果较好。

Self-made novel polyamine fixing agent was used in fixation treatment on nylon fabric dyed by the acid dyes. And the best optimized fixing process was provided. The nylon fabric dyed by acid dyes was treated via two dipping and padding under the conditions of fixing agent 90 g/L, the fixing temperature at 60℃, dipping for 30 min, pH 6 and liquor retention of 80%. And then the fabric was pre-dried at 80℃for 3 min and baked at 130℃for 3 min. The property tests show that washing fastness and wet rubbing fastness can reach 4 and 3 scale for nylon fabrics dyed with acid dyes, respectively. From the point of wet rubbing fastness, the self-made fixing agent can present the good effect for acid dyes.